Get Fit for the Mountain

My personal fitness journey to get ready for an epic mountain trip

The route

Detailed Itinerary

• Day 1 (Monday 10th July)

  If staying in Chamonix, we leave early to travel to Zermatt and take the télépherique to the Klein Matterhorn. The start of our first mountain objective is quickly arrived at as we head onto the glacier and ascend the Breithorn (4164m) via the SW Flank. A relatively straightforward ascent on 35 degree snow/ice, giving a good opportunity to acclimatise and refresh our crampon techniques before traversing over the summit and descending via an exposed snow ridge. We then continue towards the Guide d'Ayas Hut (3420m) for the night.

• Day 2 (Tuesday 11th July)

  We start off the day by ascending back up the Verra glacier to climb Pollux (4092m) via its SW ridge, first on rock, then finishing with a fine snow arête to the summit. Descending the same way, we then continue on our way and then climb Castor (4223m) via its glaciated west side. We continue along the scenic SE ridge, enjoying impressive close up views of Lyskamm, and then south down easy glaciated slopes to the Quintino Sella hut (3585m).

• Day 3 (Wednesday 12th July)

  We traverse below the south face of Lyskamm, by glacier and then over steep rock and ice to the summit of the Naso del Lyskamm (4272m) and then descend towards the eastern lobe of the Lysgletscher, where we continue more easily through impressive glacial scenery to the Gnifetti hut (3625m).

• Day 4 (Thursday 13th July)

  From the Gnifetti hut we reascend the Lysgletscher taking in as many of the surrounding 4000m+ peaks along the way, such as Vincent Pyramid (4215m), Balmenhorn (4167m), Corno Nero (4321m), Ludwigshöhe (4343m), Parrotspitze (4434m) and finally the Signalkuppe (4554m). We should be well acclimatised by now because we are going to stay at the Margherita Hut which is situated on the final summit of the day and is the highest building in Europe.

• Day 5 (Friday 14th July)

  Today, we start off by climbing to the summit of the Zumsteinspitze (4563m), our highest point where we enjoy dramatic views as we scramble to the top. We climb down the same way and our descent continues down the long Grenz glacier and moraines with stunning views towards the Matterhorn before reaching the architecturally impressive Monte Rosa hut where we can enjoy an early lunch. The afternoon is spent traversing around and over dry glacier with an uphill trail at the end leading us to the Gornergrat railway station at Rotenboden where we descend back to Zermatt by train.